Having received as a gift a ticket to the Kingston Graduate Fashion Show last month, I didn’t think twice, but headed towards Earl’s Court 2. GFW was a first for me, but I’m glad I had the opportunity to witness the birth of talent. And talent there was. The press declared Kingston’s show not only the show du jour, but one full of potential young designers. No doubt, if you came along expecting to be overwhelmed by rebellious creations, then you might have left disappointed. Nowadays, however, it is rarer to see wearable clothes on the catwalk of graduates than Westwood’s predecessor’s visions. And this is the main reason why I appreciated the show; give me pieces that sell and I am happy.
Among the abundance of fresh ideas, few managed to capture my attention so tight, that here I am, a month after the show sharing with you my observations.
Nathalie Tunna’s designs attracted me with their effortlessness and feminine shapes. I could instantly feel Miss Prada’s innovating spirit or Miu Miu’s girlish attitude. Nathali’s creations were decided in neutral pastels and certainly had the lack of complicity and provocation which drew my attention. The shiny patent accessories also helped and added a polished, yet modernizing touch to the timeless pieces that Nathalie Tunna sent down the runway.
Speaking of flowing dresses Alice Early continued Tunna’s trend (it was the other way around actually, because Early opened the show). Her masterworks were two: fist came the mastered tailoring which showed on jackets and the only cape in the collection. Then, there was the brilliant mix of leather, chiffon and silk. Girlie, but great ensembles for a working woman, in other words: the 50s toughened up a bit with hints of punk and grunge.
From leather and silk, moving on to knitwear and Lucy Hammond’s bright pieces. She certainly has taken some inspiration from Sonia Rykiel’s intarsia sweaters. A jumper dress in black and red stripes saying “I LOVE KNITTING, I’M NOT SHITTING” closed the show. Surely, Hammond’s imaginary customer is a sweet girl at heart, but she’s not ***ing around town.
I’m looking forward to next year’s bright new talents. Meanwhile, good luck to these new grads.